Fischer Heavy-Duty Anchors Secure Mägdeberg Climbing Crag
This case study demonstrates the combination of fischer FIS V Plus injection mortar, rock, and hooks provides a reliable and secure hold for the midway hooks and redirecting points of the restored Mägdeberg climbing crag for years to come.
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| The JDAV climbers screwed the safety hooks into the Mägdeberg climbing crag’s drill holes that had previously been injected with the FIS V Plus universal mortar before spreading any excess mortar. Photo by Flynn Renner |
Drilling and setting anchorages on high, partly steep mountain faces are just some of the extreme tasks performed by Konstanz’s German Alpine Association Youth Group climbers.
In June of this year, the climbers restored a climbing crag on Mägdeberg, a mountain with a height of 654.2 meters in the middle of the southern German Hegau landscape of volcanoes and ruins, with views as far as Switzerland.
Heavy-duty chemical fixings by fischer were used to anchor the safety hooks into the cliff face.
In the middle of Hegau, near Singen (southern Germany), Mägdeberg mountain has a climbing crag that has been used since the 1970s and was recently renovated by the German Alpine Youth Association (JDAV) in Konstanz.
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The climbers of the JDAV used compound hooks that sit flush and firm against the rock together with the fischer 2-component FIS V Plus injection mortar. Photo by Flynn Renner |
Climbers placed the first drilled hooks around 1980. The hooks were bonded into the rock with quick-setting cement that was not weather-proof, causing individual hooks to loosen after 45 years.
To ensure continued safety, the JDAV restored the entire area with more than 300 midway hooks and 50 redirecting points made of stainless steel, as part of a large-scale campaign.
One of the challenges was the varying consistency of the substrate. Because of this, the hooks for the midway securing points have a length of 80 mm, while the redirecting points are 120 mm long.
The condition of the stone worsens towards the peak, where a longer embedment depth provides added safety. Belay stations with rings or carbine hooks provide a point to transfer the rope and allow climbers to descend at the end of the route.
“Every single hook and fastening point are crucial to people's safety when climbing," said Fynn Renner, head of youth leader training at the German Alpine Association Youth Group (JDAV) in Konstanz. “Here at the JDAV, we have confidence in the quality and reliability of fischer's tried and tested fastening products."
While restoring the Mägdeberg climbing crag, the climbers used compound hooks that sit flush against the rock and are held in place with the fischer 2-component FIS V Plus injection mortar.
“This fastening method guarantees a secure hold as this compound system is firmly connected with the cliff face,” Renne said.
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| The fischer SDS Plus Quattric II hammer drill offers advantages including rapid drilling and a long service life in extremely hard stone. |
The FIS V Plus injection mortar is quick and easy to use, providing safety in extreme conditions such as securing climbing hooks in high, steep mountains. The drill holes require thorough cleaning to allow the chemical plugs to achieve their load-bearing capacity.
The JDAV climbers injected the universal mortar from the base of the drill hole using the fischer dispenser before inserting the hooks and spreading any remaining mortar. Upon being dispensed from the static mixer, the two separately stored resin and hardener components are mixed and activated.
Once cured, the compound system reaches its permanent and full load-bearing capacity. fischer’s SDS Plus Quattric II hammer drill proved its worth while creating drill holes in stone.
“We’ve already used the fischer Quattric II drill to secure multiple climbing routes,” Renner said. “The tool once again impressed us during the current restoration project thanks to its low wear and tear and high performance compared to alternative solutions.”
The drill features a carbide tip, solid cutting edges, and a two-piece spiral design that enables faster drilling and increased service life. Also, the reinforced core provides added stability during the drilling process.
After the successful completion of the restoration project, all 50 climbing routes along Mägdeberg’s climbing crag are once again safe to climb for many years to come.
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